Sade has been creating iconic music for the last three decades with her unique, smoky voice. Yet when she emerged on the London music scene in the mid 80s, she also became an instant icon of cool with her exotic looks and a singular sense of style. On the eve of her birthday, D’NA looks back on Sade’s enduring influence on fashion.
The pop-soul chanteuse’ signature look of a sleek ponytail, bold red lips, silver hoop earrings, and a minimalist fashion sense, came at a time when designers such as Azzedine Alaia, Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler were proposing a modern powerful woman. Sade’s own powerful sense of feminine elegance would also come to define the style of an era.
Born Helen Folasade Adu, to a Nigerian economist and a British nurse, she spent her early years in Clacton-on-Sea, England where she learnt to ride horses. Growing up in the early 1970’s, she read a good deal, developing an interest in fashion as well as the music of Curtis Mayfield, Donny Hathaway and Marvin Gaye; artists skilled at translating complex feelings of heartache and hope, into songs that were both lasting and transcendent.
In 1977, Sade moved to London to study fashion design at St. Martin's School Of Art. After graduating three years later, she teamed up with her friend and fellow St. Matrin’s grad, Gioia Mellor, to launch a small fashion company designing menswear. Amongst their first clients were the Brit-pop group “Spandau Ballet.” To make extra money while starting her line, she also worked as a fashion model. Today Mellor still collaborates with Sade, designing many of the singer’s stage outfits.
While studying fashion at St. Martins, a group of Sade’s friends had formed a Latin-soul band called Pride and asked her to help them with the vocals as a back-up singer. Her solo performances of the song "Smooth Operator" quickly attracted the attention of record companies and in 1983 she signed a solo deal with Epic Records taking three members of the band, Stuart Matthewman, Andrew Hale and Paul Denman with her.
They would go on to produce a string of hits, including their 1984 debut, “Diamond Life”, “No Ordinary Love” and “The Sweetest Taboo,” which were ubiquitous throughout the 80’s and 90’s; purring out of radios and lending ambience to countless lounges, restaurants and boutiques.
In 1985, the gifted singer/songwriter made a rare appearance in the film “Absolute Beginners,” directed by Julian Temple. She played singer Athene Duncannon, and performed “Killer Blow,” a song she co-wrote with Simon Booth of the soul/jazz band “Working Week.”
Back in '84 when Sade broke through with "Smooth Operator," her multi-cultural looks and sophisticated style stood in contrast to other pop stars of the time. She emerged during the music-video era (her debut album, “Diamond Life,” appeared a year after Madonna’s did), when many pop stars believed they needed maximum media exposure to sustain a career. Instead Sade chose to hang back, letting the songs alone define her.
“With most artists they’re more of a big person in their public persona than they are in their private persona, and I’d say with Sade it’s almost the other way around,” said Sophie Muller, a friend she met while attending Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, who became her video director for “Soldier of Love,” as well as the album-cover photographer.
It is a formula the iconic singer continues to embrace, as she goes on to inspire a new generation of designers with her timeless sense of style.
