This month Nosh, the Riyadh-based label founded by Noura Al-Shaikh, débuts at D’NA. We sat down with the young talented fashion designer to talk about her love of travel and the challenges facing young Saudi designers today.
Did growing up in Saudi Arabia influence you as a designer?
From an early age I was attracted to different fabrics, colors and textures, especially in Saudi Arabia which is an incredibly diverse country with a long history of embroidery and weaving. Each region has its own distinct costumes and embellishments. Luckily the London-based Mansoojat Foundation is preserving many of these costumes for the world to see. Although I’m engaged with what’s going on in the world around me, as a Saudi designer, I also gain inspiration from the past and try to infuse those references into my own design process in a non-literal way.
With so many Arab fashion designers being formed in the West, why did you choose to study fashion in Riyadh?
After receiving a Bachelor’s degree in Business Administration, I decided to pursue my dream of becoming a fashion designer. At the time the Arts & Skill’s Institute had just opened in Riyadh, in collaboration with the Box Hill Institute in Melbourne, Australia. It was the first school of its kind in the Kingdom to offer fashion courses and many of its graduates have gone on to open boutiques and establish labels of their own. I wanted to contribute to Saudi Arabia’s emerging fashion industry, and it seemed like a great opportunity.
In addition to learning patternmaking, fashion history and theory, the institute was an amazing environment to grow and exchange ideas. In addition to working with well-known designers, we collaborated with other institutions such as the Sorbonne in Paris.
As students, we were also encouraged to experiment, which is important to nurture early on. For my graduate exhibit, I was inspired by “Sadu,” a traditional woven fabric used for tents and furnishings. I used it to create a garment that was part evening dress, part wearable art.
Does travel play a role in your design process?
Travel has always played an important role in my design process. My latest collection is inspired by my recent visit to New York, a city that has always fascinated me. As a designer I tend to be very observant of people on the street, buildings, and details. All of those references translate into my clothes. I’m especially passionate about modern architecture. New York offers so many great examples such as the iconic Chrysler Building, whose lines are echoed in some of my designs.
What are some of the challenges facing Saudi designers?
The main challenge is overcoming the stereotype of what Saudi designers are capable of achieving. Even within Saudi Arabia it will take time to convince people that we are capable of producing quality designs that can stand up against international labels. Designers here also have to contend with a lack of infrastructure to support their businesses, such as fabric suppliers that sell in large quantities and factories to produce our lines. We are still a relatively young fashion industry and with time we hope to overcome many of these challenges.
Can Saudi fashion change perceptions and create positive links to the West?
Definitely, the beauty of fashion (like art) is that it crosses so many borders irrespective of race, language or religion. Everyone can relate to it on some level and it can be used as a tool to encourage a dialogue between different cultures.
Why did you decide to set up your own fashion label?
When I decided to launch my label, Nosh, my dream was to build a successful Saudi-based international brand. I want to show the world what Saudi women are capable of achieving by establishing an example for other young designers to follow. Its important to show that we do have the support here from family, friends and our fledgling fashion industry to make a difference.
